Coat, Pleated, 15th Century

Short jacket typical of mid late 15th C. fashion in England, France,  Burgundy, and the Low Counties. May be seen in virtually any visual source from 1430-1490. For excellent examples, see “Jean Wauquelin presenting the Chroniques de Hainaut to Philip the Good”, Rogier van der Weyden, 1447-48 /  Le Cueur d'Amours Espris, Rene' of Anjou, 1457.  / BNP  MS Fr. 2695. f 3v, René d'Anjou, c. 1460. Bibliothèque de l’Arsenal, Ms-5072, fol. 222r., 1468-70.

Pleats radiate from shoulder and run to the hem. The waist is pulled in, creating a fashionable, broad shouldered "X" shape. Closes in the center front with hooks or hidden  buttons. Designed to be worn over a mahoitred doublet, which provides support for the sleeves.

This coat is always made to order, and each one is customized to the wearer's preference. The style varies thru the century, and we are happy to advise you on the correct details for the year and status of the impression it is made for:

• 1430-1450- The coat is longer and open to the waist, displaying the shirt. Sleeves are closed and tapered. The skirt of the coat is often slit on the sides.
• 1450-1490-  Front is closed and the split and rolled sleeves appear. Jacket is worn very short (hip to crotch length) by young men, mid-thigh length for average wearer and livery.  Full length for those of dignified age, high status or for ceremonial occasions.

For more more images of coats we've made, see PLEATED COAT.

Select the size closest to your measurements for pricing purposes. Your coat will be custom sized to the measurements you provide. Please supply actual chest and waist (at navel) measurements taken over your doublet in the "comments" portion of your order. We cannot process your order without this information.

Fabric choices:

• Wool, lined in Linen (click on the link for wool swatches)
• Brocade, lined in Silk (click on the link for brocade swatches)
• Velvet, lined in Silk (specify colour desired when placing order)

Please order carefully, custom and made to order garments are not returnable.

(Jean Pierre is wearing a short coat of 1450-90 made of chocolate brown chenille brocade lined in gold faux silk. It has the SPLIT SLEEVE option. Under the coat is a red tone on tone damask mahoitred doublet. )

***We do not stock this garment, each is custom made to the client's specifications.***