Doublet of Charles of Blois, circa 1360

Reproduction of the garment said to have belonged to Charles of Blois. This pourpoint or doublet is part of the collection of the Musee Historique des Tissus in Lyons and probably post-dates Charles' death at Auray in 1364. (See photo of the original garmet at right)

Using patterns taken from the original and available from sources such as Harmand, Payne, and Tarrant, this is without question the most complex garments we've ever undertaken to produce. The doublet is made up of 18 pieces and requires over 60 buttons!

Historical costume enthusiasts will be familiar with the rather unique construction and fit of this garment. The body is very full over the upper chest; the torso is shaped below the diaphragm, skimming the body and creating a very slim line over the hips and abdomen. The garment is buttoned the length of the center front, and small vents in the side seams over the hips allows freedom of movement. The sleeves are amazingly intricate, consisting of 5 pieces assembled into a tour de force of tailoring genius called the "grande aissiette". The grande assiette (or large plate', in french) requires an oversized armhole which falls outside the shoulder/arm join and most of the shoulder muculature. Moving the seam to the center of the body and covering the shoulder, arm and chest with a complexly tailored sleeve allows for a tightly fitted body while enabling a completely unencumbered range of motion in the arm. The sleeves fit close to the arm and button along most of the length of the outer arm. The doublet is completely lined in linen, regardless of exterior fabric chosen.

Notes on fit: We have tested this garment on real people in a range of sizes, and find that this cut looks and fits wonderfully on a proportionate, athletic build. This includes gentlemen of both shorter and taller stature. The cut can also help disguise a thick midsection, within reason.

Main product photo is green velvet. Inset photos are red linen.

REGARDING FABRIC CHOICES (all garments are fully lined in linen):

• WOOL: Our wool comes from a US mill that manufactures their own high quality goods, and stocks dozens of historically appropriate colours.  We're now able to get almost any colour you desire, from palest to darkest shades. Choose your colour/s from these WOOL SAMPLES and include a 'wish list' of your top 3 choices in the Comments section of the Order Form.
• LINEN: Selection varies, please enquire
• BROCADE: Find an online swatch album of currently available chocies here: BROCADE SAMPLES

SIZING: Choose the size closest to your measurements for correct pricing; each garment will be custom made to your measurements. Fancy and/or self buttons are sometimes available, please enquire.

• Sizes:
• Small - 40 inch chest, 34 inch waist.
• Medium - 42 inch chest, 36 inch waist.
• Large - 44 inch chest, 38 inch waist.
• X-Large - 46 inch chest, 40 inch waist.
• XX-Large - 48 inch chest, 42 inch waist.
• XXX-Large - 50 inch chest, 44 inch waist
• XXX-Large - 52 inch chest, 46 inch waist

Please order carefully, custom made and made to order garments are not returnable.