Sideless surcoat, Wool

The surcoat or overgown without sleeves first appeared in the 12th C; in Europe, it was a voluminous garment that covered the wearer from neck to toes, and only the sleeves of the gown beneath could be seen.  In Iberia, it appeared as the ‘pellote’, whose top was so narrow it was little more than a broad strap running from neck to hip which held the skirt up.

Over time, the European garment shrank and by the beginning of the 15th C. it looked very much like the Iberian version, with a narrow bib over the chest  and back which supported the skirt.

Although a staple of 12-14th C. wear, by the early years of the 15th C. it had evolved into more of a ceremonial garment depicted on brides, queens, princess-saints, and funeral brasses, rather than an item of common daily wear.

Our sideless surcoat is a basic shape seen from the first quarter of the 14th C. thru the first quarter of the 15th C. This shape is depicted on the funeral brasses of Aleyne de Creke (1340-50) and the wife of William Baginton (1407).  The moderately scooped neck is wide on the shoulders, and the arm hole sweeps to a soft point at hip level.  The front and back are narrow enough to offer glimpses of the waist and hip without being extreme. The bodice is fully lined to the hip, and the skirt is unlined. No machine stitching is visible on the outside of the garment, or in the lined area of the inside.

Our surcoat is offered 2 ways- in stock (as listed in the drop-down menu), or made to order.  It is available in Small, Medium and Large for the perfect fit.

For the most flattering fit, choose the size closest to your hip measurement over the gown you'll be wearing with the surcoat.

  • Small: Fits  38" - 42" hip
  • Medium: Fits  43" - 48" hip
  • Large: Fits 49" - 54" hip

(Fabrics shown are in stock- main photo shows surcoat in deep berry wool flannel over a medium blue linen gown.  Inset photo is the surcoat in wine/ivory pattern woven wool blend worn over a pink linen gown. Please contact us for Made to Order colours)

​Please order carefully, custom made and made to order garments are not returnable.

Historical Accuracy Rating




Starting at: $104.95

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  • Model: BSD-SS01
  • Shipping Weight: 4lbs




This product was added to our catalog on Sunday 17 February, 2013.