Reproduction of the garment said to have belonged to Charles of Blois. This pourpoint or doublet is part of the collection of the Musee Historique des Tissus in Lyons and probably post-dates Charles' death at Auray in 1364. (See photo of the original garmet at right)
Using patterns taken from the original and available from sources such as Harmand, Payne, and Tarrant, this is without question the most complex garments we've ever undertaken to produce. The doublet is made up of 18 pieces and requires over 60 buttons!
Historical costume enthusiasts will be familiar with the rather unique construction and fit of this garment. The body is very full over the upper chest; the torso is shaped below the diaphragm, skimming the body and creating a very slim line over the hips and abdomen. The garment is buttoned the length of the center front, and small vents in the side seams over the hips allows freedom of movement. The sleeves are amazingly intricate, consisting of 5 pieces assembled into a tour de force of tailoring genius called the "grande aissiette". The grande assiette (or large plate', in french) requires an oversized armhole which falls outside the shoulder/arm join and most of the shoulder muculature. Moving the seam to the center of the body and covering the shoulder, arm and chest with a complexly tailored sleeve allows for a tightly fitted body while enabling a completely unencumbered range of motion in the arm. The sleeves fit close to the arm and button along most of the length of the outer arm.
Notes on fit: We have tested this garment on real people in a range of sizes, and find that this cut looks and fits wonderfully on a proportionate, athletic build. This includes gentlemen of both shorter and taller stature. The cut can also help disguise a thick midsection, within reason.
Please note that like a suit or uniform, we offer this garment in "Regular" and "Long". Gentlemen over 6', as well as those who normally take a "Long" suit or uniform should order the long version of their size.
Small - 40" chest, 34" waist
Medium - 42" chest, 36" waist
Large - 44" chest, 38" waist
X Large - 46" chest, 40" waist
2X Large - 48" chest, 42" waist
Please note- Although we do keep a few of these in stock, we prefer to make them up to each customer's personal requirements. There is no additional charge for making a garment to order, and turnaround time is usually about 3-4 weeks, depending on current workload. Please email email@example.com for more information. Please indicate your colour preference by listing your top 3 choices in order of preference in the Order Comments section of the order form. When your order is processed we will respond with a list of what is currently available in your preferred fabric and colour range.
We regret that the black/gold fabric shown is no longer available. Please enquire for current selection of fancy fabrics.
This product was added to our catalog on Friday 17 October, 2008.